Island Explorer Extraordinaire

July 31, 2013

  Here’s the thing about Tonga, it is made up of over 177 different islands. There is a lot of islands with in a short distance from the main island in the Vava’u group- so basically if you have access to a boat you can have a lot of adventures; I was invited on one such adventure yesterday by a few Australians and one of their Tongan boyfriends (the one with the boat). I got the day of from school (a request that was sadly all to easy) and we took Po’uli’s boat to the outer island of ‘Eua Kafa.

      We had such an amazing time snorkeling, fishing, hiking and generally just hanging out on an unpopulated island. The snorkeling was pretty awesome, I thought anyway, and fishing was rad (by fishing I mean I used a net once and caught some small sardine looking fish while Po’uli caught some puffer fish and needle fish with nylon attached to bamboo and a speargun). We made ‘ota ika (my favorite Tongan dish) from scratch with the fish we had caught and some onions and limes that we had brought. We even got our own coconut milk from gathering coconuts, breaking them open, grating them on a stick and squeezing the milk with the coconut husk. We also built a fire and cooked some of the fish and toasted the coconut. The food came out awesome and plentiful.

       After eating we took this crazy long hike through the bush up the mountain to get to this old burial ground and lookout point. We tried to find the supposed path but we kept getting lost so instead we took the bush knife (machete) and made our own path. It was actually really fun just trying to find a way to the top all the while walking through spider webs and over fallen trees (all barefoot by the way), I felt like Indiana Jones. We finally made it to the look out and it was beautiful. The hike down however, was a bit more precarious than the hike up and we ended up having to use a lot of hanging tree branches and vines to propel down the sides in some places. We rewarded our efforts with another short snorkel and some cookies. As far as Tuesdays go I would say it was pretty solid, above average even…

a squid that Po'uli ha d got on our way to the island

'Eua Kafa

Po'uli and I at the ancient grave

chillin' in the old grave

the view from the look out

the crew

It's From The Sea It Has To Be Delicious!

July 25, 2013

  Feeling board with my Tongan language I’ve started a new goal- to learn 6 new words a week. I have also been more diligent about my village strolls; in a flash back to life when i first got to site, I took my flashcards on a walk last Saturday and found myself in an interesting situation.

    I was walking and chatting with various people and passers by when I came to a family eating outside there house. Since one of my favorite things is free food on an eve pe I called to the family-

ko e ha me’a ‘oku mo kai? (what are you eating?)

The answered back kolukalu. I had no idea what that meant so I went in to investigate. My first impression is the word kolukalu must mean some sort of animal mucus because it appeared to me that they were slurping up grayish colored snot.

I asked again- ko e ha? (what is this?)

Again they responded kolukalu.

I asked mei fe? (from where?)

mei tahi, ifo (from the sea, delicious). It is a rule of mine to try everything in Tonga so with an apprehensive face and anxious onlookers I slurped up the offered spoonful of goop. Nothing about it was pleasing to the pallet, not the texture, the flavor or the rank after taste.

I wanted to know what I had just put in my mouth so I questioned more-

mei fe? (from where?)

Mei tahi (from the beach)

Io! Ka mei fe, mei tahi?! (yes, but where from the beach?)

Mei tahi, ifo (from the beach, delicious) seeing as I was not getting anywhere I decided to write the word down and look it up later. I stayed with the family for a while and we laughed at my confusion and dislike for something they thought of as a delicacy.

      In case you were wondering what I ate was jellyfish and it was not delicious.

Call Me Doctor Sifa

July 31, 2013

  I came into Peace Corps and to my village with some ideas of what I thought would be good to try and accomplish while I was here, it is pretty safe to say I was idealistic… Not only was idealism the issue but also importance or lack of. For instance, one of the projects I wanted to start was community recycling- not to say I won’t try and do this later on, but the community would not really rally behind it since there really isn’t anything to do with the recycling once you collect it unless you can convince someone to drive across the island to the aluminum only recyling place.

      About a month ago during recess I saw one of my kids out of the corner of my eye. What made me double take and call the kid over was I saw he had about a three inch wide, and very deep hole in his arm near his elbow. Apparently, he had fallen off a horse a week prior and was just letting things work themselves out. By the time I saw it, it was already pretty infected and an unnatural yellow color. I took him to my house and cleaned it out and bandaged it with some of the medicine from my PC medkit (shhh don’t tell anyone, we aren’t really supposed to do that). I have been taking care of his arm since then and have talked to the PC Docotor to get help with what I should be doing, I even went to talk to the kid’s mom to inform her how to keep the wound clean. This not the first time I have had to put on a docotr’s cap and it won’t be the last, Tongan kids play hard and cry for about everything else but pain.

       This incident made me realize that the need for first aid knowledge at the school and in the community is pretty dire. A lot of the cuts, sores and burns could be treated with first aid skills. I am now working to bring those skills to my school and community. I guess the worse thing and the best thing about PC service is time- it takes so long to feel like you are doing anything (if ever) yet you have a lot of time to try new things and start things, the things that you have seena real need for in your community not just the things you thought would be a good idea before you lived at site.

School's Out For...2 Weeks

July 8 , 2013

Last week was an American invasion in Vava’u. We were on school break for two weeks and so many volunteers had family and friends visit from the states. Katy came up to Vava’u with her best friend and her friend’s mom and sister, Chiara came up with her parents, Harrison had his girlfriend in, and Mark and Alissa were hosting Alissa’s parents. It was so much fun to meet everyone and get a dose of America. After over 10 months abroad it was nice to get a small break from my daily Tongan routine. We all had a lot of fun doing some of the touristy things that Vava’u has to over like a day sail and staying in the “resorts” (I put resorts in quotes because they are not exactly resorts- more so little rooms on a small portion of beach). I had a great time getting to see Tonga from the angle of a visitor and as an extra bonus the place Katy stayed in had air conditioning! We all spent a lot of time together, which was nice since I haven’t seen Katy and Chiara since training.

It was really interesting hanging out in a family dynamic again, I didn’t even realize that it was something I was missing until I was having dinner with Chiara and her parents. Even more of a bitter sweet moment was when I was eating with Katy and her friends and they were talking about all of this stuff I wont be able to care about for so long like apartments, new dogs, new places to go in their town. As I was listening to them talk about their excitement to get back and meet the new dog I was a little bummed knowing that it will be another 17 months before I can even begin to think about anything of that nature. Not that I am in a rush to leave Tonga, but I guess it was the first time I realized what I am delaying by being here…

Those thoughts aside, it was a really amazing break filled with a lot of good times. We even went to this one Island right off the main island that is run by a couple from Spain. The only thing on the island beside their house is a very small restaurant where they do a tapas dinner upon reservation. It was so peculiar, but one of the coolest things I have seen. It was like a little slice of Spain on some small island in the South Pacific. It was even a trip getting there, loading all 16 of us on two small boats in the dark- one of the boats ran out of gas half way to the restaurant and was slowly taking on water (even though the restaurant wasn’t Tongan we couldn’t escape Tonga and their bizarrely inefficient boat travel)…

The last night we all had a great conversation, facilitated by Alissa’s dad who played the role of the question master, about Tonga and our experience. I thought it was interesting that all of us had such different opinions about the experience and life in Tonga yet we almost all had similar ideas for things we would change or we thought could be better. Saying goodbye wasn’t easy but when I finally got back to my site I felt ready to get back to real life (if that is even what it is) and get back into school. I was actually surprised how much I missed my kids, even though they drive me crazy we really do have fun together and after a much needed two week break I was excited to get back in the classroom.

Katy and I at the resort

from the left: Harrison, Katy, me, Chiara, Alissa, Mark

our whole group after our day sail

Katy, Chiara and I

Katy and her friend Kelly and I having fun on their last night

Message/ Packing List To Group 78

To the incoming ladies of Group 78, and that loan wolf-I salute you. Below you will find a packing list- mainly for the one guy volunteer but you all might want to browse through it. I also, have a few words of advice which you can take or leave- really people can tell you anything but odds are you are going to think a certain way until you find it not working for you.

If you are like me, you are not putting too much thought into your pre departcher, instead you spending the rest of your US moments with friends and consuming substances. However, if you are a go-getter and need to read every packing list and blog out there I provide you with yet another example of what you can bring with you on your two year journey in the Kingdom of Tonga.

I would like to preface the list by saying thousands of people live here now, and have been living here for awhile so do not freak out about forgetting anything- you can get everything you need right here in country. I would focus bringing things that you specifically find essential and make you happy. For instance do not waste space on bringing a whole bunch of soap and toothpaste unless you a very keen on using a specific brand. And don't waste space on bringing shoes! Also, odds are you are going to over pack- pretty much my whole group did along with those before us- it’s our nature as Americans and nervous people. I would suggest over packing on things like candy, a hand held video game sytem like a Gameboy or PSP (if not for you for the kids who will inevitably end up at your house), your favorite t-shirt or pair of jeans, pictures of family and friends, beef jerky, a couple of books, blank cds, an extra computer charger or your favorite spices and hot sauce (I would definitely bring garlic salt, cinnamon and anything spicy). Anyway, without further adu I Give you Sifa’s Peace Corps Tonga Packing List:

Clothes

I don’t know if they updated the PC Tonga Info Packet they send you but YOU DO NOT NEED THAT MUCH BLACK. The color thing is not as big of a deal here as the play up in that info packet. Also adjust these numbers depending how often you are prepared to do laundry (remember it will most likely be by hand) use the smaller number if you will be a once a weaker adjust from there.

4 – 7 colored shirts at least 2 long sleeve and at least 2-3 black

4-6 T-shits I would recommend a few of your favorites and then some black or blue plane Hanes undershirts (shirts you can swim in and get dirty without worry)

1-2 Tank-tops for palangi times

3-4 pairs of regular shorts/ board shorts

Swim trunks

2-3 pairs of gym shorts

A light jacket or sweatshirt

1-2 pairs of paints jeans or otherwise (you probably won’t wear them)

1 pair of khakis or dress paints (you can never be too sure you will never need them)

Socks and running shoes (I have those weird feet shoe things, I would suggest those because then you don’t have to worry about socks and they don’t take up any room)

Definitely bring a lot of underwear that you don’t mind someone else looking at since your host mom will most likely be taking care of the washing during PST.

You only need one good pair of flip flops (I bought and brought chacos- totally unnecessary)

Kitchen Things

Measuring cups

A single cup coffee brewer with a significant amount of filters and coffee or a French press (it is my most prized possession here)

A really good nonstick pan (I have a deep on so it is perfect for making soup as well)

A good spatula

A cooking spoon

Some good sharp knives

A few pieces of silverware (they don’t really use it here but it is nice to have for myself)

A can opener

Your favorite spices (I have recommend what I consider the best ones to bring but to each is own)

Toiletries

Shaving gel/cream

Razor with extra heads

Face wash

Toothpaste

At least 4 toothbrushes

Tweezers

Nail clipper

If you like a certain shampoo (costco size that shit and bring it)

if you wear contacts i would bring at least 2 big bottles of solution because that us one thing i have not seen sold here

Miscellaneous

A backpack

A backpacking backpack

Candy- To give out and to use as kava chaser (skittles work well- pretty much any sweet thing like that)

Gum- they don’t have good gum

A watch that is water proof

Head light/flash light

An E-reader would be good

Any device that gets wifi (I have my iphone here and use it when I get wifi and it makes keeping in touch with back home super easy, I downloaded an app where I can text for free to the states.)

Day planner/ calendar

Ipod/ mp3 player

Handheld gaming device

Anything that you feel like in 6 months you will love to stumble upon e.g. letters from friends, pictures (I brought a lot to put up in my house and show Tongans- they love pictures!)

Towel (2 if you can spare the room- one quick dry and one normal one)

Flash Drives and an External HD (if you could come with it pre-loaded with newer stuff it would help all of us out! E.g. the new season of walking dead and Arrested Development and Modern Family also Daft punk, Kanye, Jay-Z and Calvin Harris' new albums)

handkerchiefs (you will want a sweat rag)

Duct tape!

Regular tape

Some nails (you can buy a hammer here)

Screw drivers (1 of each)

School Supplies

I am sure you all know what you like better than me but I think it is a good idea to bring a costco pack of pens and pencils (the kids never have them)

Erasers

A good pair of scissors

Glue stick

High lighters

A big box of crayons or markers

Some coloring books

Post-its

Some folders

A few notebooks

Whiteout

Flash Cards (a lot to help with Tongan and whatever else)

I think that is pretty much all the necessary things and even they aren’t essential. Like I said don’t worry too much, you can get a lot of stuff here if you forget things, it’s just a bit more expensive. My advice try and limit bringing the things you really care about getting broken or lost. If you have any questions feel free to email me and I would be happy to help you out. Good luck, have an awesome last summer and we all can’t wait to meet you! Oh, and tell Shelly we all say hi and we made it on the plane without paying any overage charges on our luggage (she is going to try and scare you about that).

-Joseph (Sifa) Group 78

P.S. don’t freak out about the language either ( I didn’t study at all once so ever before I got here and I am doing fine) if you work at it and want to learn it, you will.

Make that a double…shell.

June 10, 2013

When I used to walk around Berkeley, sometimes I would wonder what sort of parties would be going down later in the various apartment buildings surrounding the school. I used to imagine a group of kids having a great time and think it was weird how even though we went to the same school I would have no idea about their Friday nights. It was interesting when a similar thought hit me here. Last Friday I had was invited to an octopus dinner by my friend Tevita and naturally afterwards we went to go drink some kava. The thing that got me thinking though is that we went to some seemingly random house for the circle. Not that kava always has to be a big ceremonious thing or anything, in fact most times it is way to chill for that. However, this was my first encounter with the idea that there can be a group of guys getting down on some kava pretty much anywhere here and it does not have to be a part of a village or church circle. Sometimes it is just funny to me how much things have changed but in weird ways are not that much different. I may not be heading out to some loud crowed party filled with people swarming the bar and trying to get as drunk as possible, but I am still going to hangout with a group of people for the night and, well, the first shell of kava is always a double….

oh kava!

some guys from my village just chillin'

what you can't tell from the picture is just how unpleasant the taste is....

You Know you are integrated when…. You Know you are integrated when…. You Know You Are Integrated When...

June 13, 2013

You know you have been in Tongan for a while and you are feeling integrated when:

After a 4 hours of drinking kava your principal’s husband wakes you up at 5 am before the sun has risen to borrow a flash light. Upon returning said flashlight he engages you in conversation about hooking up with the tou’a (the kava server- who they always want me to take home even though that would never actually happen). Instead of being angry or bothered by this you simply wonder why he is going to the bush in his tupenu…

If while having Sunday lu at a family’s house, your favorite three year-old takes off his shorts and starts to run around naked then proceeds to squat and poop and this does not make you lose your appetite.

you hear someone telling a story that is about you.

your kava jokes get told to other people then spread around town.

When you no longer wear any type of footwear to work.

Only washing an article of clothing when it begins to smell bad.

the kids don’t find you particularly fascinating anymore nor do they try and feel your skin/hair.

Killing a tub of ice cream with 3 Tongans guys from your village outside the falekoloa (the shop where you can buy food items and random Chinese products) without the use of any eating utensils.

Telling kids to give you some of their keke (fried dough) in the morning before school without any hesitation. This one extends to making the kids do pretty much any type of manual labor for you as well.

You start to look for the root crop at every meal, even the ones you make yourself, and even if that meal consist of carbs only anyway (i.e. Pasta or rice).